I had intended this entry to be about the relationship between Israel and Jews in the diaspora, but that topic will need to wait. Today is about Jerusalem…There is a great property to silence, you never really notice it til there is noise. I knew Jerusalem slowed down on Shabbat, but even as I experienced it myself over the last 24 hours I didn’t realize just how much the city changes until it came back to life this evening. It was another gorgeous day here in Israel and I had the doors to the balcony open on my room. I had a wonderful lunch and managed to nap through Havdalah. It was only when I was awoken by horns and street noise that I realized Shabbat had ended. Suddenly the noises of life returned, as if all at once someone had turned the city back on with the flip of a switch. The stark contrast was much more noticeable than the slow decline yesterday when Shabbat approached.
The intensity of Shabbat has not been the only jarring realization for me staying in Jerusalem. The second was how well this city works, and how better off the world would be if we could all learn to function as well as this city does. That comment will probably shock many, the realization shocked me.
As I have mentioned before, most of my previous trips have been based out of Tel Aviv and I had only spent two nights total in Jerusalem prior to this visit. Those stays were back in 2002 during the first infantada. On that trip we went to the Kotel, we went to Mt Scopus, we walked in the Old City, but other than that we stayed within our hotel. So my experience here was limted.
And as ashamed as I am to admit it, part of me was originally saddened my meetings this time were based out of Jerusalem. For while Jerusalem is the heart of Judaism and a must visit place, Tel Aviv offers the feeling of a modern city as well the breath taking views of the Mediterranean I so crave. In addition to my addiction to the sea, I like many who haven’t spent enough time here wondered about the comfort level of being in Jerusalem.
The city is obviously known as a major point of contention between the major religions of the world and between the populations of this region. I did not worry for my safety, but for my comfort at moving easily around the city. I was completely wrong in my apprehension. As much as I knew better, I too had fallen prey to the media images of rocks being thrown on Temple mount, of youth waving guns and dancing in streets in protest, of burning cars and bombed busses. I had let myself forget the mantra of the press “it if bleeds, it leads”… that the peace and respect that this city normally lives under do not make good tv.
Since being here I have interacted with Jews, Christians and Arabs and not once have I felt out of place, unwelcome or at risk. If anything, just the opposite. This is the most comfortable multi-cultural city I have ever been to. Never once have I felt judged or at risk based on my faith or race. I have felt more tension walking the streets of NYC than I do here. This is a city where from Monday to Thursday the city is a tapestry of all lives, whether it is here at the hotel, in cabs, in stores and restaurants the faces are intermingled. Does it have its flaws, of course, is it perfect, no. But those problems represent the fringe groups and not the majority of Jerusalemites. Most are perfectly content to live side by side with each other, regardless of belief.
The ability of the world’s three major religions to co-exist is only made more remarkable when Thursday ends and the city begins its weekly 3 day transformation. On Friday I noticed that my taxi drivers, the faces at the hotel and those I saw on the streets were different. The Muslim day of gathering was occurring and the rest of the city filled the jobs so the Arab population could fulfill their beliefs. At sundown Friday another metamorphosis occurred, in my hotel I watched the staff change, gone were the kippot and stars of David and the desk clerks and waiters were primarily Arab or Christian. Tonight the Sabbath ended and as the Jewish staff returned those wearing crosses disappeared, readying for their Sunday day of rest.
It is perfect ballet that plays out week after week. A common respect and support to allow everyone their faith and their time to follow the traditions they hold dear. Being here it feels that who should own Jerusalem is more a point of contention for the media and those in power than those who live here, work here and worship here!
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